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海拔3800米的越野天堂

发布于 2018年6月6日

青海玉树的高原风光充满多样性，从气候宜人的古柏森林到烂漫至极的高山草甸，遍野的狼毒花这平均海拔4300米的高寒地带盛开得犹如世外桃源，但令人最为惊叹的还是昂赛乡的昂赛大峡谷，不论是盛夏避暑还是寻觅雪豹踪影，这里无疑都是越野自驾的天堂。但就这样的一处大自然的景观，海拔3800米左右越野天堂，竟然是不收门票的。

巴艾涌丹霞地质，是澜沧江上游的重要支流扎曲流域所在地，特殊的地理环境使得昂赛大峡谷在全国众多峡谷景区中独一无二，最让国内游感到惊奇的是，是它免费开放。

300余平方公里的白垩纪丹霞地质景观广泛发育，形成了顶平、身陡、麓缓的方山，石墙、石峰、石柱、陡崖等千姿百态的地貌形态。

是名副其实的”红石公园“。在进入大峡谷之后，风光无限，从茂密的山林里穿越到平坦的草地，紧接着在群山之间自由驰骋。

正当雨季的玉树，使得澜沧江如是一条咆哮的红色长龙，当车辆沿着江畔，在无人打扰的天地之间，潇洒自如的时候，昂赛无疑就是自驾一族的越野天堂。

沿着峡谷越往里走，道路越发艰险，风光亦就越发美的出奇，其中有一段“挂壁山路”十分惊险，汹涌的澜沧江就在边缘，狭窄的路段竟然刚刚只能通过一辆车，这对于车技不好的人而言，估计会心脏都悬在了喉咙间，然而想要过足极致越野的瘾，这一段路不能错过。

然而昂赛大峡谷不仅仅是人类的自驾天堂，可是生态环境的人间仙境，这里拥有众多无数野生动物，高山草甸下最常见的就是旱獭，它们的身影时常出现在窗口，跑动的身子像是肉滚滚的球一般，令旅途充满乐趣。

但在这里，最霸气的当属雪豹。如果感觉自己的车就如一头雪豹般的时候，那么碰到真正的雪豹，才会感受到昂赛大峡谷的自然魅力。

因此，毋庸置疑，你已经进入了“雪豹之乡”，仅昂赛乡下辖的年度村去年就发现了 24 只雪豹，而澜沧江源园区扎青乡地青村和昂赛乡年都、热情村去年共发现了有 46 只雪豹，5 只金钱豹。“雪山之王”的雪豹，在国际一直都是濒危物种，被我国列为一级保护动物。

为了野生动物的繁殖，维护自然生态的平衡，昂赛乡对于这里的环境可谓尽心尽力，往往都是大人小孩一起参与其中，将人类丢下的一切垃圾给带走，不论是驱车前往，还是徒手攀爬，危害人类和动物生存的垃圾，在昂赛乡的藏族人眼里，它是万物中的霉运，一定要清理干净。

只是在我们提出这样美丽的地方为何不收门票的时候，他们的一番话令我们感动，也感到羞耻——“这是大自然的财富，是属于万物的。而我们也是万物里的一份子，也是大自然财富里的一份子，只有保护好大自然的环境，万物才会生长，我们才会过得好。所以，不收门票，是对大自然，对万物的敬畏和尊重。”

因此，当我们在大峡谷内一边被气势汹涌的地质景观所吸引的时候，也被这这个免费开放的自然景点的环境所震撼。

这个不收门票的景点，被评为国内十大自驾路线之一，每年有无数自驾爱好者来此，虽然不能保证所有自驾者都能呵护环境，但从今天的昂赛大峡谷的生态环境来看，众多热爱旅游的人在当地村民的影响下，对昂赛对整个大自然都是有一份敬畏之心的。

但在昂赛大峡谷，不仅仅是有着最完整的白垩纪丹霞地貌，更有历史的米拉日巴古岩画和格吉部落古经堂，让人们仿佛身临清净无染的神地。

在当地人的带领下，我们在大峡谷里一边欣赏风景，一边听他们说着那遥远又古老的故事，这里的一树一木一石，对于玉树的藏族人而言都是神地所在，经幡，尼玛堆，哪怕是大自然的鬼斧神工，在他们心里也是要有所敬畏的。

两岸丹露奇观连绵不断，山路两旁不时有大片高山草甸分布其间，峡谷中翡翚的河流破冰而出，缓缓流向远方，蓝天、白云、冰河、冰瀑、冰柱、高山草甸、丹霞地貌等等构成一幅奇美无比的自然景观，如此的天成美景令人惊叹不已。

每年也有不少国外的户外爱好者来到这里，但他们一般都是挑战极限，在汹涌的澜沧江里玩漂流，甚至划皮艇。大概正是大峡谷隐藏得深，目前国内游客还不算涌动，却吸引了无数自驾圈里的爱好者们的向往，同时这里也被外国友人称之是“中国的科罗拉多大峡谷”。

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